Training Treats
From Cheerios to Prime Rib

Some truisms about using food while training.
(Some dogs just aren't food motivated... but that's another list)

A treat should be large enough that you can handle it, and small enough that it can be swallowed and continue working. Treats can be given one-at-a-time in a row for a perfect job, and your partner will think it's a 10 course meal.

2) Sometimes you need Cheerios, sometimes Prime rib.

* High Value: for those things that are high stress learning, hard to do, you're trying to build drive, or are suddenly done to perfection (like sticking your contacts for the first time at full speed! Yea! Lots of super bits for that one)

* Kibble makes a great Cheerio. A high value reward is what the receiver counts as high value, not the giver. (anyone dying of thirst would rather have water than a $200 bottle of wine w/corkscrew).

If you know it's coming and can see it, it's a lure. If you hope it's coming, it's a reward for a job well done. (Your paycheck isn't a reward, it's expected. A bonus check is a reward.)

You can make a food container for training out of almost anything. A training toy should be able to be thrown without losing the treats, and tugged on. Ideas are commercial tug toys with treat pockets, modified tug toys, mini M&M containers, old socks with smelly stuff inside, a ball on a rope with a slit for treats... These can be used to build prey drive, and and teach play.

A little something unique and tasty keeps your training partner from being bored with the same old treats all the time. A Jar on the counter where you put all your left over training treat bits when you are done, can make a nice (and handy) variety jar.

A Cookie is something that takes more than none or two crunches, and should not be used for training since your partner will be thinking about crunching and not working.

If you are moving, reward while moving (without turning to face your partner), If the dog is stopped, treat where they are stopped.

Food must be phased out, and become much more random. NEVER totally gone. The hope of a bonus or special recognition for a job well done is always hoped for, no matter what your species is.

You can't take food in the ring (or toys). If you aren't exciting to your partner, what's the fun in working together.

PLAY, build that drive and learn to play together. Every dog, and type of dog plays differently. Be excited about what you two are doing together. Celebrate the small successes with a Champagne voice and excited play.

Food always looks better on an empty stomach. (It's why they tell you to eat a snack before grocery shopping.) If it involves running, this includes both halves of the team, ;)

If your training session is close to meal time, feed afterwards, or give only 1/3 of a meal before your training session. Gee, you can even use their meal as their training treats. Double Duty Goodies. Your partner will be much more enthusiastic about working for those treats.

Reward where you want your partners attention, and directly along the path of movement. This can be hard with small dogs, but worthwhile. If you are rewarding a contact, treat where the target is/would be (low and in front). If you are rewarding between jumps, reward at your partners eye level. A toy with a treat can help a dog focus out ahead instead of up. Many people create "glue" by only treating above the dogs head, which causes them to look up to get a treat, instead of allowing them to focus on the next object.

Reward time should be twice as last as long as the effort to get them. This should mix treats with interactive play. Ruffle those coats with lots of bubbly praise, play tug, and add a treat or two. Maybe even run and play chase a bit. Usually this means you stop what you are doing for a moment before going on, or setting up for the next part of the sequence. This is true for all kinds of rewards.

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